Author Archives: JoshuaLavigne

Snowpatch Spire – Men With Options

The east face of Snowpatch Spire has become one of north Americas premiere free climbing big walls. With a concentration of routes similar to Longs Peak, the Gand Capucin or the north wall is Squamish. The sustained steepness of the wall and the technical difficulty, give the east face a hallowed place at the alter…

Swept Clean

Our objective: a new line on the north face of Thalay Sagar, a formidable Himalayan granite obelisk capped with an imposing wall of black shale. Paul slipped out of the tent and into the storm clutching a small bundle of incense and food. He’d seen our cook and liaison officer make daily pledges to their…

Mt Turnweather – Baffin Island

Every journey has a beginning, a point at which forces coalesce to encourage us to adventure into the unknown. This adventure, to climb a granite big wall in the Canadian arctic with my younger brother, Delano, started in 2005 when we traveled to the Northwest Territories to attempt the remarkable Lotus Flower Tower – Delano’s…

A new objective – Mt. Turnweather

Six weeks following our trip to Yosemite, Joshua and I have finally rendezvoused at his home in beautiful Canmore, Alberta. He, after a stint of new routing in Squamish, and I, after a trip to the Sierras, are now working through the details of our trip to Baffin. Since we last saw each other in…

Half Dome – Embrace the silence and have faith

Written by Delano Lavigne Waking up before dawn is generally considered something to be avoided but sometimes waking up before dawn is purposeful and necessary. More than that, starting out on an adventure in the pre-dawn darkness, when all thoughts are smothered by a heavy silence and our breath is consumed by the unseen emptiness,…

The Importance of Adventure and a Journey to Baffin Island

Written by Delano Lavigne I need more adventure in my life. I can no longer ignore the signs that are guiding me towards a different path, a path that leads towards the climbing life and the adventure it brings. This insight has led me to abandon a PhD program and set course towards new horizons,…

The Job We Do

Between the months of November and April I am busy with a job that is and needs to be all-consuming. I neither have time to climb nor maintain my personal life and when time does present itself, I spend it sleeping, reconnecting with friends, or doing some form of therapy. Despite the expectant and ardent…

Freerider — El Capitan

This fall, during the fabulous month of Rocktober, I had the opportunity to climb in Yosemite Valley with my good friend and long time climbing partner, Simon Meis. Simon and I have made numerous trips to Yosemite together, and as a team, over the last decade, managed to climb on some of the worlds great…

Mt Alberta, North Face

September is always a unique time in the Canadian Rockies, the evening temperatures cool just enough to keep the rock frozen in place and the weather settles into a pattern of calm and clear high pressure. The perfect conditions for climbing the big north faces. This is when I try and keep my schedule open,…

Baffin Island

In 2009, I bought the Mark Synnot guidebook to Baffin Island. It was gift for my girlfriend at the time, Carlyle, a simple gesture to encourage her dreams. She pawed over the book endlessly, looking for an adventure amongst the towering monolithes of the Norse gods. After folding the corners of many pages and taking…