A new objective – Mt. Turnweather

Six weeks following our trip to Yosemite, Joshua and I have finally rendezvoused at his home in beautiful Canmore, Alberta. He, after a stint of new routing in Squamish, and I, after a trip to the Sierras, are now working through the details of our trip to Baffin. Since we last saw each other in Yosemite our plans for Baffin have changed slightly. Because of the unpredictability of the ice-flows in the Walker Arm region of the island we have made a course correction and will now be climbing in Auyuittuq National Park. This area is home to Mount Thor and Mount Asgard. It is also home to our new objective, Turnweather Peak. This is a gorgeous piece of stone that stretches skyward at just under 1000m (approx. 3000ft). This new objective shortens our approach to only 12km and promises to offer outstanding free-climbing opportunities.

- Mt. Turnweather. North face (1000m) VI, 5.10+, A2+. June 28 to July 5, '98 Climbed by Jia Condon and Rich Prohaska

– Mt. Turnweather. North face (1000m) VI, 5.10+, A2+. June 28 to July 5, ’98
Climbed by Jia Condon and Rich Prohaska

Armed with our new plan we are busy at work organizing 21 days of food and gear. As such, and thanks to Joshua and MEC, I have piled in front of me a mountain of new gear that I will need for the trip—all of which I am looking forward to making good use of. I also count approximately 200 energy bars, 14 bars of dark chocolate (invariably not enough), 1.36 kg of gorp, 7 cups of oats (plus fixings), 7 cups of quinoa, 160 bags of tea, maple syrup (of course), celebratory whiskey and much much more.
With a healthy dose of optimism and fear, I ask Joshua if this enough food for a 21 day climbing trip to the Arctic. He assures me that it is and if anything we can make due with a food stash that should still be ‘good’, which was left behind following his trip to the area last year. His answer, which is curt yet confident, is almost satisfying but leaves me wondering what time the store closes. But to be honest, in the case of this trip to I am happy exercising great deference to Joshua. And with good reason. Not only was Joshua been to the area before but over the last 15 years Joshua has organized and successfully completed expeditions to Pakistan, Patagonia, Europe, and across North America.

So with only a day before our departure we have only a few remaining details to which we must attend. One of which is getting out and climbing.

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