Category Archives: Alpine Climbing

Snowpatch Spire – Men With Options

The east face of Snowpatch Spire has become one of north Americas premiere free climbing big walls. With a concentration of routes similar to Longs Peak, the Gand Capucin or the north wall is Squamish. The sustained steepness of the wall and the technical difficulty, give the east face a hallowed place at the alter…

Swept Clean

Our objective: a new line on the north face of Thalay Sagar, a formidable Himalayan granite obelisk capped with an imposing wall of black shale. Paul slipped out of the tent and into the storm clutching a small bundle of incense and food. He’d seen our cook and liaison officer make daily pledges to their…

Mt Turnweather – Baffin Island

Every journey has a beginning, a point at which forces coalesce to encourage us to adventure into the unknown. This adventure, to climb a granite big wall in the Canadian arctic with my younger brother, Delano, started in 2005 when we traveled to the Northwest Territories to attempt the remarkable Lotus Flower Tower – Delano’s…

Mt Alberta, North Face

September is always a unique time in the Canadian Rockies, the evening temperatures cool just enough to keep the rock frozen in place and the weather settles into a pattern of calm and clear high pressure. The perfect conditions for climbing the big north faces. This is when I try and keep my schedule open,…

Baffin Island

In 2009, I bought the Mark Synnot guidebook to Baffin Island. It was gift for my girlfriend at the time, Carlyle, a simple gesture to encourage her dreams. She pawed over the book endlessly, looking for an adventure amongst the towering monolithes of the Norse gods. After folding the corners of many pages and taking…

Man Yoga [New Route on Stanley Headwall]

On November 13th Jonny Simms and Jon Walsh freed their new mixed route on the Stanley Headwall, for the second time. Two days previous they had climbed the route, freeing every pitch for the first all free ascent. In tow they hauled 250 metres of rope, which they fixed so that I could jug and…

North Face of Mt Temple, Greenwood/Locke

On Aug 2nd, Crosby Johnston and I climbed the North Face of Mt. Temple aka the ‘Eiger of the Rockies’. There is no doubt that the Greenwood/Locke is a “must do” as stated in the Selected Alpine Climbs and I was psyched to do it with a long time climbing partner. Crosby is usually a…

Common Knowledge on the Washburn face

It was day 18 of the trip. We had just spent 3 days sleeping and eating copious amounts, trying to recover from our ascent of the Cassin Ridge. Our base camp friends had all left and the 14000 ft camp was starting to feel abandoned. The snow walls fortifying our tent were drooping and looked…