Mt Alberta, North Face

September is always a unique time in the Canadian Rockies, the evening temperatures cool just enough to keep the rock frozen in place and the weather settles into a pattern of calm and clear high pressure. The perfect conditions for climbing the big north faces. This is when I try and keep my schedule open, so I can take advantage of the conditions during this short window, but most often life gets in the way, the seasons change into winter and my dreams of grandeur are replaced with clipping bristlers at the sport crag. Not this year.

This spring, while trying to come to terms with the death of a loved one, I made the decision that the best way to celebrate Carlyle’s life, would be to live by the values that we had shared. Adventure and ultimately alpine climbing was at the core of our shared values. So, I decided that I wouldn’t compromise the precious days I had available to climb and that I would take all the opportunities that presented themselves.

When Jason Kruk, a good friend and coastal crusher (but no stranger to the Rockies) decided to drive east with an open agenda and some big ideas, I knew that we would be in for an adventure. We met in the Lake Louise parking lot and unanimously decided to go and take a look at the north face of Mt. Alberta. Without disappointment, the north face of Alberta presented us with a grand adventure, steep and technical climbing, big limestone exposure, a caving mission in the middle of the north face and a couple open bivis (man-spooning included). It seems that my commitment to being open to the opportunities that present themselves has become my best outlet for celebrating my life and my dear friend, Carlyle’s.

By: Joshua Lavigne

Camera: Jason Kruk and Joshua Lavigne

El Ten Eleven
My Only Swerving
El Ten Eleven
Bye Mom

One Response to Mt Alberta, North Face
  1. craig
    September 13, 2012 | 9:59 am

    Super cool cave, that must have been sort of trippy to take off your harnesses up there in the middle of that face.

    Can’t wait for some baffin videos!